Wednesday, 24 August 2011

TinGgaLKan AkU

katamu cinta telah tiada
sendiri aku menahan pedih ini
hilang semua rasa
habis begitu saja
untuk bersama buat selamanya

katamu dia yang lebih sempurna
dia lagi jiwa
dia lafaz asmara
bisikan kata2 akhirmu itu menusuk jiwaku
kini kau dtg utk kembali padaku

pergi sudah tinggalkn aku
ku tak ingin engkau ada
kembali lg kedlm cerita hidupku ini
ku bahagia tanpa drimu
biar begini adanya aku
tanpamu ku temukan sinarnya

bisikan kata akhirmu itu
menusuk jiwaku
kini kau dtg kembali padaku lagi
pergi sudah tggalkan aku
tak ingin engkau ada kembali lg kedalam crita hidupku ini
ku bahagia tanpa dirimu
biar begini adanya
tanpamu ku temukan sinarnya

usah lagi kau guris hatiku
ku tak mahu lagi merasa kan hadirmu dlm duniaku
pergilah dr hidupku

tak ingin kau ada

hilang semua rasa
habis begitu saja
untuk bersama buat selamanya

katamu dia yang lebih sempurna
dia lagi jiwa
dia lafaz asmara
bisikan kata2 akhirmu itu menusuk jiwaku
kini kau dtg utk kembali padaku

pergi sudah tinggalkn aku
ku tak ingin engkau ada
kembali lg kedlm cerita hidupku ini
ku bahagia tanpa drimu
biar begini adanya aku
tanpamu ku temukan sinarnya

kerana tanpamu ku temukan sinarnya

Thursday, 18 August 2011

SyawaL KiAn MeNjeLma

Cahaya itu datang kembali
setelah satu bulan dinanti
meresap ke dasar sanubari
harap hati kembali suci

Sinar itu kembali hadir
menebas segala dusta di bibir
bergumpal-gumpal dosa pun menyingkir
terbanglah sudah jiwa yang kikir

Tataplah angkasa raya
tirai pelangi membentang di semesta
meluncur warnai sukma bahagia
kemenangan yang fitri telah tiba

Wednesday, 17 August 2011

HolLand Lop PdGree For SaLE

Bingkai Kehidupan

Masa demi masa berlalu sudah
Kemana kaki jalan melangkah
Liku-liku kehidupan mengukir sejarah
Kini saatnya berpotret diri
Berbenah dari segala keburukan
Meningkatkan semua kebaikan
Ramadhan sebentar khan tiba
Kini saatnya tuk membuka pintu hati
Memaafkan semua kehilafan
Mari kita sambut dengan gembira
Dengan memperbanyak ibadah
Tuk menggapai tingkatan taqwa
Derajat tertinggi disisi khalik
Semoga Allah selalu membimbing kita
Dan nanti memasukkan kita dalam surga-Nya

Wednesday, 10 August 2011

The History French Lops

French Lops are active and sociable bunnies. They love and thrive on interaction with humans, as well as with other rabbits. They are a durable and normally even-tempered rabbit that is a popular breed for children.This breed is able to live indoors or out, as long as there is adequate shelter. French Lops are playful and need some simple toys to keep them occupied. They usually live to be 5 to 7 years old. This breed tends to have large litters, sometimes with as many as twelve offspring.
The French Lop's origins go back to about 1850. It was then that the English Lop and the Butterfly rabbit were crossed in France. The French Lop became wildly popular throughout Europe, but it wasn't introduced to the United States until the early 1970s.
Today, the French Lop breed continues to flourish. Breeders can be located with ease.The French Lop weighs, on average, 10 pounds. Its body is large and muscular, and its legs somewhat short. The head is broad, and the ears medium-length, thick and furry. Its soft, dense fur comes in a variety of colors and patterns.


The origin of the Mini Lop began in 1972, when Bob Herschbach first saw them at the German National Rabbit Show held in Essen, Germany. These lop rabbits were know as Klein Widder. The Klein Widder was developed out of the German Big Lops and their small Chinchilla. There were two varieties, White and Agouti.The Klein Widder had beautiful heads and good ears, which is typical of German stock. However, their bodies were long and narrow and their weight was over eight and half pounds. Only twenty Klien Widders existed in Germany at this time, with eleven of them entered at this show.
Mr. Herschbach brought a trio, consisting of an Agouti pair and a White doe, home with him to California and set about to produce more "dwarf" lops in other colors. He used a broken French Lop and a Standard Chinchilla in his first breeding. His first litters were all solid colors with the broken colors coming in the second generations. Thus began a long process of select breeding as size reduction takes time and is difficult to control because of the inbreeding.The first Klien Widder developed by Mr. Herschbach were shown at the 1974 American Rabbit Breeders Convention in Ventura, California by Herschbach. He reported they did not create much interest and he concluded that this was because they still were not small enough and their name was not appealing. After the convention, he changed the name of the lops to "Mini Lop" and continued efforts to improve the breed by giving several pairs to other breeders, and by 1977 gave the sponsorship of the Mini Lop to Herb Dyke. In 1978, Herb Dyke and Bob Herschbach started a correspondence club with the first officers being: President-Herb Dyke, Vice President-Craig Carpenter, Secretary/Treasurer-Sherry Rollema, with Bob Herschbach as their advisor. Within a year, they had over 500 members who contacted the ARBA with support for the Mini Lop Rabbit.
The Mini Lop was finally, accepted as a breed at the 1980 ARBA National Convention in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, and was chartered as the Mini Lop Rabbit Club of America, that same year. The membership quickly grew to over a thousand members.In the 1980s, we were breeding 23 kinds of show rabbits including the then new mini-lop breed. We rased 12 Grand Champion bunnies on the show circut in the 80s. In 2006, The Hop-N-Lops Rabbitry was formed when we went from rasing those 23 different breeds of rabbits to just mini-lops and over the past 30 years has sold over 3500 bunnies

Tuesday, 9 August 2011

Rabbit Pedigrees

What is a Pedigree?
A pedigree is used by rabbit breeders to record the parentage of rabbits of a specific breed and to show that a specific rabbit is purebred. If you ever want to get a rabbit registered and grand championed you will need a pedigree.

How to Use These Pedigrees
For those of you new to filling out a pedigree here is some information you might find helpful.Blank Generic Rabbit Pedigree:
1.Center Top under Rabbit Pedigree has a place for you to put whatever breed of rabbit that pedigree is for
2.To the left is a place for you to put your information
3.The first box on the left in the center is to put the information of the baby rabbit (kit)
4.Name is the name of the rabbit. Many people use their rabbitry name and then a name for the kit. Ex. ABOB's Midnight Sky (ABOB is the abrieviation for my rabbitry A Basket of Blessings) You could put your name (ex. Dawn's Midnight Sky) if you don't have a rabbitry name. Alot of people do even if they have a rabbitry name. You could just put your name and leave the rest blank for the new owner to fill in. I do this with kits I am selling (ex. ABOB's ____________________________)
5.Then the color of the rabbit comes next
6.The ear # of the rabbit - you can leave this blank and let the new owner give one later if you don't want to assign ear numbers right now. This is a means of identifying the rabbit for future reference. It also helps when selling rabbits of the same color. If I have say 2 torts and 5 black torts tattoing them with an ear # will help me to eventually tell them apart when I go to sell them. Also if anyone has a question about a rabbit I sold I can look up the information on that rabbit by looking up it's ear #.
7.Next is the DOB or date of birth
8.Then the sex - buck (boy) or doe (girl)
9.Wt is the weight of the rabbit. Unless the rabbit is an adult (6 months) I leave this blank
10.Reg. # is for registered numbers & GC # is for Grand Champion numbers so don't fill this out unless the rabbit has them. The new owner will fill those out later if they apply.
11.Winnings: Legs - the number of wins a rabbit has. When a rabbit wins its class and there is enough competitors they win a leg. If a rabbit gets 3 legs and is registered, you can apply to have the rabbit Grand Championed. You must be an ARBA member to do this.
12.The next two boxes are for the kit rabbit's parents. Sire is the dad and Dam is the mom.
13.Then there are the grandparents and great grandparents of the kit.
14.When you have filled in all this information you have a full pedigree. All the rabbits must be purebred rabbits of the same breed.

Thursday, 4 August 2011

American Fuzzy Lop History

The background of the American Fuzzy Lop is interwoven with the history of the Holland Lop. When first introduced, the Holland Lop rabbit was only available in solid colors, and some breeders wanted to add the broken pattern to the Holland Lop gene pool. To do this, they bred their Holland Lops to English Spots. While they achieved the goal of producing broken pattern rabbits, they failed to keep the rollback fur the Holland must have. The offspring instead had the flyback fur of the English Spot. The breeders then bred Holland Lops to French Angoras, a breed that has a very gentle rollback coat. The result of these manipulations was that the wool gene was also introduced into the Holland Lop gene pool and a Holland with long wool was occasionally found in Holland Lop litters. These were generally sold to people who were enchanted with a small wooled lop-eared rabbit.

The pioneer American Fuzzy Lop breeders, including Patty Greene-Karl and Gary Fellers of the east coast and Kim Landry and Margaret Miller of the west coast, noted the marketability of the fuzzy Hollands. Patty Greene-Karl is credited with realizing that the "fuzzy" gene was recessive, so that mating two Holland Lops carrying this gene resulted in a certain percentage of the offspring (theoretically 25%) with wool. Patty decided to develop these rabbits as a new breed, named the American Fuzzy Lop. After working for four years on the development of Fuzzies, she presented her rabbits to the ARBA for the first showing of the new breed at the 1985 ARBA Convention in Houston, Texas. Three separate standards for wooled lops were received from three different individuals, but only the American Fuzzy Lop presented by Patty was granted a working standard.

The original standard called for a maximum weight of 4 ¾ lb with the ideal weight of 3 ¾ lb, a rabbit designed to have the body type, ear carriage, and size of a Holland Lop, combined with a short, easily maintained wool. At the 1986 ARBA Convention in Columbus, Ohio, the American Fuzzy Lop was presented for its second showing, and again passed. At its third showing at the 1987 ARBA Convention in Portland, Oregon, the ARBA Standards Committee did not approve the breed. They stated a lack of uniformity from one animal to another. A new working standard was written by Jeff Hardin at the request of Patty, which was accepted. The revised standard basically described a wooled Holland, calling for a maximum weight of 4 pounds, and an ideal weight of 3 1/2 lb In 1988, ARBA requested only the breed sponsor be allowed to bring her Fuzzy Lops to Convention in Madison, Wisconsin because of limited cage space. The American Fuzzy Lop had to pass that year to become a recognized breed or else its proponents would have to start the procedure all over again. Fortunately, Patty’s presentation passed at this Convention, and the American Fuzzy Lop became a new recognized breed. In 1989 in Tulsa, Oklahoma, Helen McKie's "Herbie" was selected as the first Best of Breed (BOB) American Fuzzy Lop at an ARBA Convention. Herbie’s picture graced the ARBA Standard of Perfection, 1991-95, representing Fuzzies well.
(Reprinted in part from the AFLRC Breed Guidebook, 3rd Edition)

Wednesday, 3 August 2011

Fuzzy Lop Statistics

Maximum body weight:Senior 4 pounds,Junior 3 1/2 pounds.Juniors may not be shown in a senior class until the age of six months. The ideal mature Fuzzy Lop weight is 3 1/2 pounds. Fuzzies are judged in either the solid or broken class. 'Broken' means any acceptable color in combination with white.

Purchasing Your First Fuzzy:
The first thing to consider is type. There are 75 points on type in the ARBA Standard of Perfection. The body should be compact and cobby, with width equal to height at the shoulders, loin and hips. The spinal column is not to be prominent nor should the hip/pin bones stand out. The body must feel very smooth and well-muscled. As you slide your hands from the shoulders they should not catch on the hips. As you slide your hands down the hips to the feet they should not angle in.

The head is to present the appearance of a round ball with a flat face. It is massive in appearance and set at mid-height and close to the shoulders. The Fuzzy should not appear to have a neck. Ears are to hang straight down, carried close to the cheeks and extending 1/2 to 1 inch below the jaw. They are covered in regular fur.

The adult wool should be very dense, but not felting or 'angora' type wool. Guard hairs must be well distributed throughout, making it a very easy care coat for a wooled rabbit. The wool is to feel full of life without being excessively soft or silky. There is a minimum length of 1-1/2 inches, with a 2 inch length being preferred. The junior coat differs from the mature senior coat as it will have fewer guard hairs, making it softer and more angora-like. This softness may cause easy matting and will require more grooming to remain tangle free. By the age of six months this softer wool should be molted out and the senior texture should be displayed. A senior animal with a junior-type coat may be disqualified from competition.

There are presently nineteen accepted colors in the American Fuzzy Lop, although many other shades can be found in the rabbitry. If you want to purchase a show-quality animal, make sure it is an accepted color. These include: blue, chestnut, chinchilla, lynx, opal, squirrel, pointed white, blue-eyed white, chocolate, lilac, ruby-eyed white, sable point, siamese sable, siamese smoke pearl, tortoise shell (black & blue), fawn, black and orange.
(copy right aflrc)


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History of the Holland Lop

Holland Lops were developed in Europe by Adriann DeCock. (They are known as Dwarf Lops in Europe.) Sometime before 1949-1950 he obtained a French Lop buck and bred it to a white Netherland Dwarf doe. He assumed that the litter would end up being smaller like the doe (or at the very least, smaller then the French Lop.) He unfortunately was wrong and in 1951 tried breeding a French Lop doe to a Netherland Dwarf buck (which wasn't easy!!) This resulted with rabbits with the short and erect ears, proving that this would be a dominate gene.
In 1952 he bred a doe from this litter back to an English Lop buck. One in this litter had lopped ear carriage, while others had erect ears and a few had ears that appeared to be half lopped. The lopped bunny was a doe, but very aggressive by nature and was never successfully bred.
DeCock tried breeding a doe with one lopped ear from the second litter, to a buck from the first litter. This resulted with even more lopped earred rabbits. By 1955 DeCock had the first Holland Lop which weighed between 4.5-6lbs. By 1964 he presented rabbits weighing 4lbs for acceptance.
In 1970 DeCock and twelve others formed a Holland Lop Specialty Club, which worked hard on breeding the weights even lower, which is the weight standard we have today.
By 1979 Aleck Brook had imported Holland Lops from Europe and pushed for acceptance by ARBA, which was approved.

(inspired by the 5th HLRSC handbook, original article written by Anthony Howard)

Thursday, 28 July 2011


Masuk arnab betina dalam sangkar arnab jantan . Tetapi jangan lakukan sebaliknya, kerana arnab betina mempunyai “territorial behaviour” yang kuat dan akan menyerang serta mungkin membunuh arnab jantan tersebut.Masa mengawan antara 1 – 5 minit sahaja. Kemudian ambil semula arnab betina dan kembalikan dalam sangkarnya. Jangan tinggalkan arnab betina dalam sangkar arnab jantan tersebut lebih dari tempoh tersebut.Lakukan waktu proses mengawan arnab ini dalam keadaan cuaca yang selesa seperti awal pagi atau lewat petang, elakkan proses mengawan diwaktu tengahari kerana suhu yang tinggi akan mengurangkan kadar kesuburan.


Arnab jantan dewasa yang subur hanya boleh digunakan sekali dalam masa 3 hari ataupun 3 kali seminggu. Ada juga yang mengsyorkan pengunaan 2 kali sehari dan kemudian direhatkan selama 3 hari. Pengunaan pejantan boleh ditingkatkan secara perlahan kepada sekali sehari.Penggunaan arnab jantan yang berlebihan akan mengurangkan kadar kebernasan dan kesuburan. Menggunakan seekor pejantan yang terlalu kerap boleh menjejaskan keupayaan seksual arnab pejantan tersebut.Pada keadaan semulajadi (di hutan) arnab betina akan mengawan semula dalam masa 24-48 jam selepas beranak. Keadaan ini tidak digalakkan dalam penternakan arnab komersial, kerana arnab betina tidak boleh digunakan lebih lama.Dalam penternakan arnab komersial, arnab betina akan dihakwinkan semula dalam tempoh antara 3 – 4 minggu selepas tempoh beranak. Atau dalam masa proses cerai susu, arnab betina tersebut boleh dikahwinkan semula.


Untuk memastikan arnab tersebut telah mengawan ialah apabila arnab janatan memanjat arnab betina auntuk seketika dan kemudian arnab jantan akan menurunkan badannya seperti keadaan mengelunsur kebelakang atau terlentang.Untuk memastikan kebernasan, proses mengawan yang pertama pada jam 8.00 pagi – 10.00 pagi dan yang kedua boleh dilakukan 5 – 6 jam selepas proses mengawan yang pertama. Iaitu pada waktu petang.


Tempoh bunting arnab betina antara 29 hingga 31 hari. Bunting berat adalah pada minggu keempat. Pada peringkat ini kotak sarang beranak bolehlah diletakkan dalam sangkar arnab tersebut. Tujuannya adalah supaya arnab tersebut dapat menyesuaikan dirinya lebih awal dengan kotak sarang tersebut.Tanda-tanda arnab telah hampir beranak jelas kelihatan pada hari ke 27 – 29 dimana ia akan berkeadaan gelisah dan kemudian akan mencabut bulu dari bahagian bawah perutnya serta membuat sarang beranak dari bulu tersebut. Elok sekiranya pembela membubuhkan cebisan kertas surat khabar yang telah di potong-potong bagi membantu pembentukan sarang.Pada keadaan ini arnab tersebut hendaklah dibiarkan bersendirian dan jangan diganggu, melainkan jika untuk menukarkan kotak sarang. Makanan dan minuman hendaklah disediakan secukupnya.

Monday, 25 July 2011

My BFE' L molting

Rabbit Grooming

Rabbits are very clean animals. They naturally perform rabbit grooming procedures all the time. Even in the wild in their earthen burrows they keep their fur clean. The do this they use their tongue. When rabbits are grooming each other it is to help each other get to the places that are hard to reach, like behind the ears. When you see your bunny washing his face, he uses his paws like a washcloth by applying saliva to them.Rabbit grooming sessions with your bunny need to take place on a regular basis, that is unless you have a full-furred rabbit like the Angora or Jersey Wooly, then it is an almost daily requirement. We not only want our bunny to have a good looking coat, we also want him to be healthy. Rabbit grooming plays a major part in the health of your rabbit.Did you know that the majority of health problems domestic rabbits experience are caused by poor husbandry? Ask any Rescuerer and they can tell you horror story after horror story of how pitiful have been the conditions of the rabbits they have saved and nursed back to health. To neglect proper grooming of your pet rabbit is on par with neglecting the proper care of a small child.
Instead of seeing the rabbit grooming session as a problem to be addressed, you need to see it as an opportunity to bond more closely with your little friend. The first few sessions are probably the most difficult, but be of good cheer, some bunnies actually learn to enjoy rabbit grooming. Mid-day is a good time for a rabbit grooming session because that's when they are usually most calm.

Sunday, 24 July 2011

Kaedah Mengahwinkan Arnab

Masukkan arnab betina di dalam sangkar arnab jantan. JANGAN lakukan sebaliknya kerana arnab betina mempunyai “territorial behaviour” yang kuat dan mungkin akan menyerang arnab jantan tersebut. Biarkan pasangan arnab tersebut mengawan antara 5-10 minit, kemudian ambil semula arnab betina dan kembalikan ke dalam sangkarnya. Lakukan waktu proses mengawan arnab pada waktu pagi atau lewat petang. Elakkan proses mengawan pada waktu tengahari kerana suhu yang tinggi / panas akan mengurangkan kadar kesuburan. Lakukan proses pertama mengawan arnab pada jam 8-10 pagi dan proses kedua selepas 5-6 jam proses pertama. Arnab jantan induk hanya boleh digunakan untuk proses mengawan 1 KALI 3 HARI / 3 KALI 1 MINGGU / 2 KALI 1 HARI dan kemudian DIREHATKAN selama 3 HARI. Ini kerana penggunaan arnab jantan yang berlebihan akan mengurangkan kadar kesuburan. Arnab betina akan mengawan semula dalam masa 24-48 jam selepas melahirkan anak. Tetapi di dalam penternakan komersial, tempoh masa 3-4 minggu / dalam masa proses cerai susu adalah disyorkan.

taBLe For tHe bUnniEs


إِنَّ الَّذِينَ آمَنُوا وَعَمِلُوا الصَّالِحَاتِ سَيَجْعَلُ لَهُمُ الرَّحْمَنُ وُدّاً
. Sesungguhnya orang-orang yang beriman dan beramal soleh, Allah yang melimpah-limpah rahmatnya akan menanamkan bagi mereka dalam hati orang ramai perasaan kasih sayang.
Surah Maryam ayat 96



A pelleted rabbit feed is a staple in the domestic rabbit's diet. The pellet is the main source of protein, fat, and energy, so it is important to choose a good pellet!When choosing a pellet, the first thing to look into is the mill date. As a general rule, you don't want to feed pellets that are more than 3 months beyond the mill date. As pellets age, they loose nutritional value but they can also spoil, causing illness or fatalities within your herd.
The fresher the pellet, the better! A fresh pellet should be greenish and firm with a strong (fresh) smell. An old pellet will often be greyish brown, crumble easily, and may smell musty or moldy.Also important is the ingredients in your feed. It is best to stay away from feeds containing colorful bits and pieces, seeds, or other "decorations". These are most often advertised as pet feeds, and have low nutritional value. Most of the time, those little colorful pieces are just treats and your rabbit will pick those out and leave the pellet. Instead, find a plain pelleted feed, with nothing else mixed in.


Hay is my favorite part of a rabbit's diet. In fact, it's almost magical! Yes, really.Hay is the #1 source of fiber in a domestic rabbit's diet. It helps to regulate the digestive system and is the main preventative of wool block. Like cats, rabbits groom themselves and ingest a generous amount of fur. Unlike cats, rabbits are unable to regurgitate "hair balls", so the ingested fur must move through the entire digestive system before it is released. Hay helps to break up and move that fur through the system. In addition to this, a good course hay is great for gnawing on and wearing down a rabbit's constantly growing teeth. So like I said, hay is a magical food! Is has many benefits, and is an integral part of every rabbit's diet.
Young rabbits, up to maturity (6-9 months) may enjoy Alfalfa hay as an extra source of calcium. However, older rabbits do better on a grass hay. Timothy and bermuda grass are favorites, but almost any mixed grass hay will do. I suggest that hay is available in unlimited quantities, and my rabbits get a large handful daily that they can snack on throughout the day. Especially for herd rabbits who spend most of their time in their cages, providing hay can also prevent boredom by giving them something to chew on and play with throughout the day.

Show Hay